Ireland Geography

Geography
The island of Ireland is 300 miles/450 km long and 190 miles/300 km wide and covers approximately 32,600 sq. miles/84,500 sq. km. Ireland is divided into four provinces - Ulster, Munster, Leinster and Connaught and into 32 counties. The Republic of Ireland consists of 26 counties and Northern Ireland consists of 6 counties.

Ireland is on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and in accordance with daylight saving, clocks are put forward one hour mid-March and back one hour at the end of October. During summer it stays light until as late as 11.00pm but by mid-December it can be dark by 4.00pm.

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Ulster
The Northern part of Ireland - the great and majestic Ulster - offers a different and quite unique experience. The interwoven influences of several different cultures - the Ulster Scots, the Gaelic, the Norman and the Anglo-Norman - have sculpted and coloured the landscape in a way quite different to the rest of the island. These influences are reflected in everything from field patterns and villages to well preserved woodlands, an abundance of spectacular mansions, castles and gardens, and the uniquely Northern heritage of Victorian industrial grandeur. In addition, the geographical location of Ulster as the most Northern part of Ireland surrounded by ocean on three sides has formed a breathtakingly beautiful coast of dramatic cliffscapes, sweeping strands and tumbling mountain ranges rarely equalled elsewhere in Ireland. The tranquil rural landscapes of Southern Ulster bounded by Lough Neagh in the East, Lough Erne in the West and the lakelands of Fermanagh, Cavan and Monaghan in the South, offer a superb and almost continuous countryside shaped by mountains and rolling Drumlin hills and enclosing numerous spectacular lakes and rivers.

Travelling Southwards from Belfast through the famous 'Gold Coast' of North County Down, the home of some of Belfast's most affluent citizens, opens the way to the serene and mildly rugged coastlands of Strangford Lough and the Ards Peninsula and that heartland of Northern culture around Downpatrick. This highly populated and exquisitely cultivated region is rich in beautiful villages, country houses and woodlands, most notably the majestic house and gardens of Mount Stewart and the sublime Castlewellan Forest Park, one of the finest in the British Isles. Historic remains abound in the ancient Gaelic and Norman castles along the coast and the traces of early Irish Christianity at Downpatrick, where Ireland's most famous apostle, St Patrick, lies buried by an imposing cathedral. South of Newcastle the coast opens up to the rugged coastland and wild terrain of the Mourne Mountains. These mountains are among the most popular walking areas of the North, offering spectacular views of the coast as well as the hospitality of the tiny villages dotting the area.

Inland from Belfast is the heartland of the historic linen industry around Lisburn, Lurgan and Portadown. Traces of this industrial heritage, initially developed by Huguenot refugees in the late 17th century, can be found throughout the region in confident and stylish old Victorian mill buildings. Just beyond is the great Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the British Isles and the largest inland fishery in Europe. The primitive attractive power of the great lake contrasts with the exquisite neatness of the stone-built villages which surround it in a style easily reminiscent of the Scottish lowlands. From the peatlands bordering Lough Neagh to the wild hillsides of Slieve Gullion in the South, is the green hilly Drumlin countryside of County Armagh.

The ancient city of Armagh, with its two cathedrals, the mediaeval St Patrick's Cathedral and chapterhouse (Church of Ireland) and the 19th century St. Patrick's Cathedral (Catholic) with its tall spires and brilliantly coloured interior and with Palace Stables and St Patrick's Trian (to explore the City's history), and the attractive 19th century streetscapes and old medieval centre, is still the ecclesiastical centre of Ireland. Just outside the town is both the massive (and well preserved) Navan Fort, dating back to 2,500 BC and inextricably interwoven with ancient Celtic myth and saga.

To the East are the wide plains of County Tyrone, dotted by neat and industrious settler towns such as Newtownstewart and quaint model villages such as Sion Mills, set against the dramatic background of the Sperrin Mountains. One of the finest folk museums in Ireland is the fascinating Ulster-American Folk Park north of Omagh which traces the story of Ulster's influence on the young American colonies.

The magical lake and river landscapes of the Southern border counties of Ulster Ð Fermanagh, Cavan and Monaghan Ð have been recently made very accessible with the re-opening and development of the Erne waterway connecting to the Shannon. This whole area is rapidly emerging as probably the finest of angling and boating regions in Ireland. The pristine serenity and breathtaking beauty of this lake and mountain landscape is greatly enhanced by the warm and friendly manner of the people, not least in the fine welcoming town of Enniskillen at its centre.

What is undoubtedly the most impressive aspect of Ulster is the unremitting beauty of its spectacular coastline, from the wild reaches of Donegal in the West, along the Northern shoreline from Londonderry to Bushmills and down the dramatic Antrim coast to Larne North of Belfast.

Donegal is characterised not only by the tremendous beauty of its coastline, but also by the rugged mountain wilderness which dominates the centre of the county and the scattered villages and towns which dot its coast. There is nothing sombre in this wild county, and the hospitality and easy way of life which the visitor encounters here remain a lasting memory. The rugged granite and quartz mountains of the West are closely reminiscent of the highlands of Scotland and, particularly North of Dungloe and the spectacular Bloody Foreland, the coastal journey becomes ever more impressive and awe-inspiring. Wild rocky headlands alternate with sweeping golden beaches. The surprisingly well-populated Gaeltacht areas are characterised by rambling chaotic village settlements with characteristic cottages dotting the countryside for miles around. The Northern coast is characterised by hidden bays, wild cliff-ringed inlets, tiny settlements and sweeping beaches. And everywhere are numerous opportunities to ramble and climb over wild countryside and end the day in some tiny fire-warmed pub.

The border of Northern Ireland begins at Lough Foyle, and there is no better introduction to the region than the easy climb to the ancient and well-preserved ring fort of Grianan of Aileach just West of Londonderry, with its extraordinary views over mountain and coast for miles in every direction. The City of Derry is a neatly developed town. Derry is one of Europe's few remaining walled cities. Its historic core is shaped by winding streets, and the ancient walls of the old town offer amazing views out over the city. The Northern coast from Derry to Ballycastle is characterised by almost continuous beaches Ð most notably at Portstewart Ð and spectacular cliffs. The beautiful harbour town of Portrush is rich in facilities for the visitor, not least its fine golf courses. The neat stone town of Bushmills is home to what many regard as Ireland's finest whiskey, and its ancient distillery, the oldest licensed distillery in the world, is still a major attraction.

The coast from Ballycastle to Larne is one of the most beautiful drives in Ireland. From the mighty ruins of Dunluce Castle at Bushmills to the many craggy remains of old MacDonnell fortresses Ð such as at Rathlin Sound Ð history is etched in its every nook and cranny. Wild Rathlin Island known for bird watching and scuba driving with its scattered housing has a unique attraction of its own, and for a quirky experience it is hard to better a walk over the precarious rope footbridge connecting Carrick-a-Rede to the mainland.

Most spectacular of all, of course, is the magnificent Giant's Causeway, recognised as one of the natural wonders of the world. It consists of thousands of hexagonally-shaped basalt columns, some up to 160 metres high, formed 60 million years ago as the volcanic lava cooled after breaking through the surface. The sense of geological violence is palpable in the place, and standing among the towering tubes of stone makes the ancient myth of the giant's pathway to Scotland seem highly probable.

Inland from this magnificent coastland is the very different and invariably warm experience of the Glens of Antrim. High rugged mountains are broken by a series of spectacular glens, descending to the sea at Cushendall and Cushendun. Tiny clustered villages and mountain hamlets tell the story of a way of life which has been little disturbed in over two hundred years. Traces of the ancient Gaelic culture of the region reverberate in the traditional music encountered everywhere here.

Ulster is breathtaking.

Munster
Munster is without doubt the lushest of the four ancient Provinces of Ireland. The variety of experience, the dramatic changes of landscape, the geological and geographic diversity within such a relatively small area, strikes even the most casual visitor.

The Province of Munster contains Ireland's oldest kingdoms, which still shape the diverse local cultures that so colour life in this South Western quarter of the island. Approaching from the East, through the magnificent Comeragh Mountains of Co. Waterford, and down the sharp fall of the pass known as the 'Vee', is an exhilarating way to enter the province. Arriving at Youghal, an old English settlement town, is a fine introduction to the Southern coast and the first hint of the dramatic surprises to come.

Cork City, that true centre of Irish mercantile tradition, is a must for any traveller wishing to flavour the culture of the Irish South. A bustling and self-conscious city of 0.3 million people, Cork enjoys its position of Second City of the Republic, as is testified to by its numerous public monuments and historic streetscapes. The city centre remains remarkably relaxed despite the hectic bustle of the 'Celtic Tiger', epitomised in the computer and pharmacological plants that lace the port areas to the South.

North of the city, in the valley of the Great River Blackwater, is the heart of IrelandÕs Golden Vale, the wellspring of the legendary Irish dairy industry. Lush rolling fields with their grazing Friesian herds, interspersed with beet, oat and wheat crops, characterise a countryside which for centuries provided the centre of Irish wealth. The pleasant towns of Mitchelstown, Kanturk, Mallow and Fermoy characterise this attractive pastoral countryside. West and South West of Cork City, an entirely different landscape emerges. The more rugged valley of the Lee leads Westwards through Macroom and here the beginning wildness of West Cork first appears.

The beautiful townlands of the South, with their numerous small farms and pretty villages, lead to the coast at the ever-busy harbour towns of Kinsale and Clonakilty. Moving further West along an ever-more enchanting and dramatic coastline leads to the towns of Skibbereeen and Skull and breathtaking ocean inlets with romantic names such as Roaringwater Bay. This entire Southern coast is a favoured area for sailing enthusiasts from Britain and France, and accordingly has some of the finest eating establishments to be found anywhere in Ireland.

Some of IrelandÕs most breathtaking scenery is reserved for the five peninsulas that jut into the Atlantic from the South West corner of the island, like the fingers of a hand. Each one bears a backbone formed by a mountain range, which invariably sweeps to the sea in a series of alternatively rocky and sandy bays. Offshore islands such as Sherkin and Cape Clear retain a magic which is unequalled and should not be missed. Throughout this region Ð not least in Bantry Ð are many traces of the fine heritage of plantation towns. The townlands throughout this area are also rich in archaeological remains Ð not least the mysterious stone circles which dot this part of the country. The rugged landscape of the peninsulas is equalled by the wildness in the villages and small harbour towns. Winding roads lead over mountain passes to descend to magnificent inlets of the sea.

Despite the wild ruggedness of the South Western peninsulas that form the coast of West Cork and Kerry, they are surprisingly accessible. Larger towns, such as wonderful Kenmare and the ever-lively Killarney, form perfect bases from which to explore this countryside. While in high season the main roads around the peninsulas can get quite busy, the opportunity to leave the beaten track and find natural beauty and serenity is never far away. Numerous tiny winding roads lead to quiet bays or into the rarely visited countryside. The extraordinary lushness of the most Westerly parts of the coastline is a gift of the Gulf Stream. Each of the peninsulas has its own unique attraction and the traveller will never need to fear repetition or sameness. The three larger ones Ð Beara, Iveragh and Dingle Ð each require a full day just to visit properly and none will disappoint. DonÕt miss an opportunity to get out to sea, whether for sea angling or visiting the breathtaking monastic settlement on Skellig.

Leaving the southwest, the journey North to the Shannon Estuary and Limerick may be uneventful, but the towns along the way are invariably pleasant for a stop, and some, like the writersÕ centre of Listowel, are certainly worth more than a lingering visit. The Shannon Estuary is magnificent, and a ferry crossing at Tarbert should be tried. Limerick City, with its 13th century castle fortress and old town as well as its sweeping Georgian Avenues, is a gem for the historically intrigued. It is also a town of great sporting fame, the true centre of rugby in Ireland

Leinster
Leinster in the east stretches from the border of Northern Ireland to the Southeast corner of the island, and inland to the great River Shannon. 1.9 million people - well over half the population of the Republic - live in Leinster, although a little over one million of these are concentrated in and immediately around Dublin. The image of Leinster as the 'developed' region, with an intense infrastructure, modern towns, highly cultivated countryside and a well settled coastline, does the region little justice. In fact, there are extensive areas of wild mountainous countryside, beautiful golden beaches and many magical river valleys to attract. Leinster was also the most fought-over and repeatedly settled and colonised part of Ireland, and this is reflected in the great variety of the historical heritage which characterises almost every corner of it.

Leinster is probably best seen as a series of mini-regions, each self-contained in a local geography, landscape and history. One highlight of a visit to Ireland is without doubt the fascinating Boyne Valley, from Trim in County Meath with its massive Norman ruins to the old and bustling town of Drogheda on the coast. Almost every era of Irish history has left traces in this rich and ancient river valley, though of greatest interest are the passage graves of Brú na Bóinne.

The most famous of these is Newgrange, Europe's greatest and most stunning Neolithic monument. Its inner chamber, fully illuminated by the rays of the rising sun on the two days either side of the winter solstice (21st December), is decorated with mystical spirals and other images. Over five thousand years old, its intricate structure has been little disturbed by the passing of time. The monument has lost little of its profoundly spiritual feel, a feature much commented upon by awed visitors. In this area can also be found the old Celtic monastery of Monasterboice with its High Crosses, the ruins of the great Cistercian Abbey of Melifont and the battlefield of the Boyne which so decisively shaped modern Irish history.

In contrast, North of this area and just beyond the pleasant and industrious town of Dundalk is the peninsula of Cooley. Here beautiful mountains sweep down on either side to the Irish Sea, offering great walking opportunities along the ancient route of the mythological battles of the pre-Celtic lords of Ireland (the Cœchulainn Way). The feel of antiquity has a physical presence in the numerous Stone and Bronze Age remains scattered through the countryside and the small fishing villages on the coast Ð especially Carlingford Ð are pleasant stopping places with good seafood.

South of Dublin is the luxurious countryside of Wicklow, with popular beaches at the coast, green valleys and small villages nestling in rolling foothills inland, and much tougher and wilder mountains to the West. Know as the ÔGarden of IrelandÕ, the area presents endless opportunities for rambling and relaxing. Southern Leinster forms something of a unit, with the Counties of Wexford, Carlow and Kilkenny. A unifying influence is provided by the three ÒSister RiversÓ of the Suir, Nore and Barrow, forming similar and quintessentially rich Irish valley landscapes. The area is also given a common character by its extensive Norman heritage. This is reflected in the neat stone villages and the numerous castle ruins of Celt and Norman origin that decorate this most fertile region. Some of IrelandÕs most beautiful beaches grace the South Eastern coast while inland is a wealth of gorgeous villages and towns dotted throughout the highly cultivated rolling countryside. The great town of Southern Leinster is, of course, Kilkenny, with its rich Norman architecture and busy modern restaurants, bars and galleries. Soaking up the lively atmosphere of the Kilkenny region is always an experience, not least the tangible local enthusiasm for the great Irish sports of hurling and cross-country horse racing.

Farther West is County Tipperary, rich in culture, music and sport. From the imposing Galtee Mountains, the wondrous Valley of Slieve na mBan, the lush green countryside, the great historic fortress and religious site at the Rock of Cashel, the historic towns of Tipperary and Thurles and the beautiful and serene River Shannon, this is a county for taking a leisurely break and absorbing its richness.

Travelling the Shannon by boat remains a magical experience, particularly the utter stillness and beauty of moving slowly across the great Lough Derg. North of County Tipperary is the countryside of Offaly, Laois and upwards into Westmeath, where many hidden gems can be discovered along winding rivers and canalways or through the beautiful mountainous region of the Slieve Bloom Way.

The grandeur of Leinster is formed by its picturesque river valleys, its astounding and still living historical heritage, its surprisingly attractive East coast, its many and varied towns and villages and the majestic feel of experiencing the best of the River Shannon.

Connacht
The West coast of Ireland presents the quintessential image of the country, epitomised in the wild landscapes of Connemara, the million miles of dry-stone walls, the fierce Atlantic Ocean and the startling skies which often accompany coastal storms and breathtaking sunsets. The ancient Province of Connaught stretches from the long estuary of the Shannon in the South to beautiful Sligo Bay in the North and Eastwards as far inland as the Shannon.

Deeply enriching this whole region and giving it a particular quality is the ubiquitous influence of the language and music of Gaelic culture. The farther West one goes, the more powerful is the impact of this proud and self-assertive identity. Town, village and even city facades present a bright panorama of colour, invariably richly decorated with Celtic motifs and Gaelic shop names. Equally stunning is the sheer diversity of landscapes and coastal views.

Musical, sporting County Clare occupies the region North of the Shannon Estuary almost as far as Galway City. Its limestone formations provide the typical multi-toned light-green countryside of the South as well as the extraordinarily rugged cliffs which rise from the wild sea at Loop Head up to the magnificent Cliffs of Moher. Ubiquitous stone walls of strange flat limestone slabs criss-cross a countryside of small farms and fields. Numerous small country houses, cottages and random villages dot the landscape in an apparent chaos so typical of the West. North and East of the Cliffs of Moher, this landscape suddenly gives way to the dramatic limestone karst of the Burren, classified by UNESCO as a world heritage site, which reaches Northwards in strange and beautiful layered terraces to the shores of Galway Bay. The Eastern side of Clare is physically a much more subdued place, with quiet villages, the pretty gorge of the Shannon and, of course, the ever lively and colourful town of Ennis.

Travelling around the sweep of Galway Bay, with the remains of numerous medieval Gaelic and Norman castles dotting its shoreline, the mountainous profile of Connemara on the horizon indicates yet another dramatic change of landscape. The pale greys and greens of the Burren give way to the deeper greens and brown-red colours of Galway as the limestone base is replaced by a rugged granite. Galway City Ð the undisputed ÔCapital of the West' Ð is a unique urban experience with its ultra modernity and youthful population mixing easily with its vigorous and proud Gaelic traditions. The beautiful city centre with its winding roads, historic buildings, gushing waterways, theatres, galleries and numerous shops, pubs and restaurants, throngs with people night and day. The excitement of life imbues the atmosphere, and it is an excitement which is rarely less than good humoured and generous.

The stunning landscapes of Connemara begin with a startling suddenness West of Galway at Spiddal. Wild turf bogland forms a shallow cover over dramatically shaped granite and quartz rock and mountain. Enclosed by bogland and rock are numerous deep dark lakes. Crushed in geological antiquity by the granite, limestone deposits were pressed and formed into the fine marbles to be found in many corners of the area.

The coastline consists literally of thousands of wildly shaped bays and inlets. Where the relentless rock and bog allow, small oases of greenery appear, and wherever they exist there too are clusters of scattered housing Ð what in Connemara are known as villages and townlands. Here the daily language is Gaelic and its lilt and stubborn style also shape this unique region. Off the coast too are numerous peninsulas and islands, most famously the stark Arann Islands off Galway Bay, and to the North, Inis Boffin. Visiting any of these islands is invariably a dramatic experience and one which is guaranteed never to be forgotten.

The rivers and great lakes of Connaught, particularly in Connemara and to the North in Mayo and Roscommon, still contain an abundance of fish, not least salmon, trout, pike and perch, which attract thousands of anglers from around the world. The sea is equally abundant and provides not only a livelihood for many coastal communities but also an excuse for the visitor to take to the high seas for the thrill of sea angling.

North of Galway is the equally dramatic coastline of Mayo, from the lush and dramatically cliff-lined coast of Achill Island to the fierce and sea-blasted coasts between Belmullet and Ballycastle. Long beautiful beaches can be found not only in Southeast Connemara, but equally on the coasts of Northern Mayo and Sligo. Some have become world famous as attractions for champion surfers.

The beautiful town of Westport has become a must for visitors as has the very different and lively town of Sligo. Sligo opens onto an exquisite interior lakeland which provided the inspiration for much of Yeats' most inspiring poetry. This is an area contrasting with Connemara not only in its stunningly lush green lakeside countryside but also in its extraordinary abundance of strange Bronze Age passage graves and other monuments given such eloquent meaning in the ancient Celtic sagas.